Becoming for the vacation season, we’re reaching for a bottle with real American street mud in its veins: Ben Holladay 1856 Original One Barrel Bourbon, aged eight years. It’s a whiskey with a Western backstory as compelling because the liquid inside, the sort that feels proper poured slowly on the finish of an extended day.
Based in 1856 in Weston, Missouri, the Holladay Distillery is the oldest distillery west of the Mississippi nonetheless working on its authentic website. Ben Holladay—a Kentucky native and legendary entrepreneur referred to as the ‘Stagecoach King’—constructed a transportation empire that stitched the frontier collectively lengthy earlier than interstates or asphalt. He selected this website for its pure limestone spring water, charted many years earlier by Lewis and Clark. When Holladay’s stagecoaches pushed west, his whiskey went with them. Legend has it that if you happen to had been consuming bourbon within the Wild West, there’s a great probability it got here from Holladay’s barrels.
The distillery handed by varied arms over the following century, turning into the McCormick Distilling Firm in 1942. Bourbon manufacturing halted in 1985 as the main focus shifted to different spirits, however the model returned to its roots in 2015. In 2022, Holladay launched its first Ben Holladay bourbon in 30 years, reviving the unique 1856 mash invoice and getting older it in the identical historic rickhouses. This eight-year, single-barrel expression is a part of that quiet however deliberate comeback.
Visually, the bottle leans exhausting into its heritage, and it really works. The black, crimson and off-white palette stands out amongst louder shelf mates, whereas the illustrated stagecoach and interval typography really feel genuine reasonably than gimmicky. Based mostly on appearances alone, I think probably the most pure pairing for this bottle is a Stetson and a few ragged sh*tkickers.
Firm: McCormick Distilling Firm
Distillery: Holladay Distillery
Proof: 120.4
MSRP: $90
Bottle Particulars:
Lot/Barrel: 16K13 / 1823
Distilled: 11/12/2016
Aged: 8 years, 4 months
Rickhouse C
Ground 3
Rick 12, Tier 3
Nostril:
Darkish fruits exploded on the preliminary sniff check. A handful of Solar-Maid raisins was thrown immediately into my nostrils at a drive that rapidly blew the imaginary Stetson off my head, changed with one thing extra akin to a solar bonnet. Pairing with the raisin, prune and darkish fruits was wealthy leather-based notes together with candy caramel, vanilla extract and an oak presence. The proof is current however managed—extra like a agency handshake than a slap.
Palate:
Baking spices out of the gate, joined by darkish fruits. The Solar-Maid continues to be lurking, however she’s fading and never as sturdy as her presence on the nostril. The darkish fruits flip into extra of a chewing tobacco notice. Caramel is available in with a touch of Cherry Coke. Rye is noticeable and will get stronger because it turns the nook into the end.
End:
Rye spices linger lengthy after the sip. The proof is noticeable right here, including a nice heat. The fruit notes that had been sturdy on the nostril dissipate by the palate into the end. Tobacco, oak and leather-based now do the speaking.
General:
Holladay’s different releases have set expectations excessive, and this eight-year delivers—simply in a distinct register. It’s darker, heavier and extra contemplative than its siblings, a pour that rewards slowing down and paying consideration. At this proof and value level, it earns its preserve.
Rating (5-point scale):
Nostril: 4
Palate: 3.5
End: 3.25
Presentation: 3.75
Complete: 3.625
A particular because of Tim Dobbins, our resident Glencairn guru, for this bourbon evaluation.
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